Blue Skies & Blueberries
Blog by Michelle Ciach
It was a beautiful summer day – blue skies and pleasantly warm cooling breezes – when I decided it was the perfect day to see Two Planks and a Passion’s production of Beowolf outside of Canning, NS. The only hitch – where to have supper before the show. So I picked up my Taste of Nova Scotia Culinary Adventure Guide and started looking. In the heart of the Annapolis Valley I found Between the Bushes.
The Valley was hot and steaming, the air still, as I passed pastoral scenes of lush green fields and the slowly moving Gaspereau River. Multiple signs easily led me to the restaurant which was literally “between the blueberry bushes” on the Country Magic Farm. Country Magic (or Nova Agri Inc.) farms are a co-operation of five farms that grow everything from blueberries to cooking greens. They have been taking advantage of the many micro-climates in the Annapolis Valley for generations.
Their constant innovations include organic and pesticide-free veggies, hydroponic tomatoes and water conservation in irrigation to maximize antioxidants in their produce. They have pioneered the “Taste the Colours” labeling that list the nutritional benefits of the fruit and veg on their packaging.
Their original farm started in 1959-1960 when the federal government planted high bush blueberries as a commercial venture. 30 varieties unique in flavor and taste, continue to be grown on site and they produce over one million pounds of blueberries a year.
Between the Bushes opened its doors in 2001 to showcase these ripe and flavorful seasonal fruits and vegetables. In 2005, Chef Steve Riley took over the helm. Originally from BC, he has his Red Seal and has had recipes featured in Gourmet magazine, Canadian Living and Where to Eat in Canada. He personally supervises all meals to ensure that his passion for healthy delicious food is conveyed with every dinner service. His vision for the restaurant includes the “Field to Fork” ideal of using seasonal, local produce. They even sell house-made products such as vinaigrettes, spreads, and chutneys to enjoy at home.
The Dining Experience
The Between the Bushes dining room is light and bright with custard yellow walls and large windows overlooking the blueberry bushes. There are beautiful wall-sized paintings depicting scenes of life in the Valley – collecting shells along the Bay of Fundy beaches, picking blueberries around the restaurant, life on the homestead and harvest time. The artist, Madeleine Bellmond, is an Albertan native that was hired to paint the murals in 2006 while in Nova Scotia visiting family.
My server, Liz, is Chef Riley’s daughter. She was professional, pleasant and well-versed on all the menu options. She was also very mindful of my request to finish in time to get to the theatre. She colourfully described the daily specials and was constantly focused on making my first meal here a memorable one.
The wine list represents of a wide range of Nova Scotian wines from Gaspereau to Grand Pre to Jost and Annapolis Highland. I decided to follow a “blueberry theme” in honour of the farm surrounding me. I chose Grand Pre’s blueberry sparkling wine – tart with a hint of sweetness and a beautiful pink/violet colour.
After agonizing over the appetizing menu, I finally chose the Table d’hôte. I started with the soup of the day – a delicious cherry tomato and julienned vegetable soup. Sweet and savoury at the same time, it was so pleasing to my taste buds that I didn’t even miss the option of fresh mushroom caps in butter or a shrimp cocktail with brandy cream horseradish sauce. The salad menu is also solid with the usual House, Caesar, Spinach, and interestingly a curried club salad with apricots and almonds.
For my main, the Blueberry Maple Salmon on a bed of brown and wild rice with blueberry and maple sauce was my first choice – in keeping with my blueberry theme. Beautiful fresh beans and slices of zucchini next to a generous portion of salmon with a delicate hint of maple blueberry flavour. As tasty as it was, I still wonder about all the options I missed – scallops and haddock, pear and ginger chicken, roast pork loin with apple thyme jus and fresh country potatoes…mmmm!
The indecision became overwhelming when the dessert menu arrived. I got distracted by the possibility of Paradise island – Callebaut chocolate in a pool of Crème Anglaise with a drizzle of blueberry cassis and caramel. Then there was the homemade cheesecake, 24 Karet Gold carrot cake, Crème Caramel and ice cream… But I did not forget my focus – the upcoming start of blueberry season. I dug into Between the Bushes’ signature blueberry apple crisp with mango and blueberry puree – elegantly presented with a pansy flower lying on top of the creamy vanilla ice cream and blueberry crisp. The crisp was sweet and crunchy and the fruit flavours blended pleasantly together. A perfect end to the meal.
As I was leaving the restaurant, I discovered a small shop on site with “treasures” from local artisans. There are works of art, paintings, candles, soap, pottery, books, weaving as well as smaller versions of Madeleine Bellmond’s works. And there is a cook book entitled “Cooking for Families” – designed to get families cooking together using local produce with proceeds going towards using more local fruit and veg in local schools.
Between the Bushes fully embodies many of the values I have come to treasure in Nova Scotia – eat locally and responsibly and become involved in your community by encouraging community and development on all levels.
Nestled in the heart of the fertile Annapolis valley, Between the Bushes promotes a healthy lifestyle with seasonal local produce. I can hardly wait to return, pick my own blueberries and try that delectable Paradise Island dessert.