Glenora Distillery: Entrepreneurial Vision, Perseverance and Passion

This past summer, driving through the lush green valley of Glenville, Cape Breton, it seemed for a moment that I had been transported to the Scottish Highlands. The distinctive European design of the Glenora Inn & Distillery emerges out of the lush hillside like a mystical castle settled in this sleepy Cape Breton setting.

The impressive property, nestled approximately an hour drive from the Canso Causeway, is home to one of the most inspiring stories of entrepreneurial vision, perseverance and passion the province has ever seen. A world-class product, the beauty of the land in which it is produced and a David vs. Goliath legal battle have all served to define Glen Breton products.

On a misty Sunday, I was the guest of Donnie Campbell, Distillery Manager and Whisky Ambassador of the Glenora Inn & Distillery (and yes, Donnie’s business card says Whisky Ambassador – easily 100x cooler than the “Audit Manager” title that is emblazoned on my cards). To get a full feel for what Glenora has to offer, we took part in both a public tour of the distillery and a private whisky seminar led by Donnie.

The Tour
Cheryl, our tour guide, provided our group with an in-depth history of the Glenora Inn & Distillery. Bruce Jardine, a local businessman and one of seven general partners that founded Glenora Distillers Ltd., envisioned leveraging the geographic similarities between Cape Breton and Scotland to craft North America’s first single malt whisky. A born entrepreneur, Jardine selected the site for the distillery in Glenville after an extensive search of over 200 fresh spring sites in the area, using Glenora Falls as its base to capture the flavours of apple orchards, wild cherries and vanilla present in its waters.

Having found the perfect water source, Jardine and his team spent nearly a full year conducting research across Europe to learn the secrets of the world’s best whisky producers, and buying up the right equipment.

Walking through the distillery, it is clear that Jardine envisioned Glenora from more than a manufacturer’s perspective. He wanted it to be an educational experience for tasters of whisky. Guests at Glenora come away with a much better understanding of the time and effort that goes into making a world-class whisky…and in Glenora’s case, an understanding of some of the challenges encountered along the way…

Credit: The Chronicle Herald

The Battle of the Glen
In 2004, a mere four years into its retail journey, Glen Breton whisky found itself under the world’s microscope when it came under attack of the Scotch Whisky Association of Scotland, which alleged that Glenora was making illegal use of the word “Glen” in its Glen Breton line of product, alleging that it was a term owned by the Scots. The impending lawsuit would bring international attention to Glenora, and result in a legal battle that took over nine years to settle. In the end, Glenora emerged victorious. In celebration, the distillery dubbed its fantastic 15YO whisky series “Battle of the Glen”.

The Tasting
Following the tour, I met with Donnie to learn more about some of the individual casks of whisky that have come to define the Glen Breton brand via a private whisky seminar. Available to the public for $100 per person, the seminar includes a more in-depth tour of the Glenora site and an interpretive tasting of a variety of Glen Breton’s products, including the beautiful 15 Year “Battle of the Glen” and Glen Breton Rare Ice. Simply put, the whiskey seminar is worth every penny.

Four Glen Breton masterpieces were available for tasting on this fine day, each coupled with insight from Donnie, who is a wealth of knowledge on all matters whisky, having spent several months traveling the UK in search of scotch perfection before joining the Glenora management team. Throughout our tasting, his enthusiasm for his job was evident.

A big grin comes over his face we begin to taste the 10 year old (YO) rare (43%). He instructs me to warm my glass with my hands to unleash a nose of orange, spice, honey and vanilla with hints of tobacco, maple and cherry. A palate of fruit, chocolate, hazelnut, maple and cherry is complimented by a long smooth finish of apple… a fitting tribute to the orchards that line Glenora Falls.

Next up is the aforementioned 15YO Battle of the Glen. A subtle nose of applewood and honey flow into a taste of malt with a full suite of orchard flavours. The finish offers up a warm, lasting peaty character. This was worth the lengthy battle to be certain.

Moving on to the 10YO Rare Ice (57.2%), I happily experienced another innovation in whisky. For this tasty treat, Glenora partnered with Jost Vineyards, putting oak barrels once employed to produce Jost’s Ortega Icewine to work for four months to age a batch of one of their cask strength whiskies. The result, a brilliant combination of Glenora’s rare whisky flavour with a trace of sweetness from the Ortega.

Last but certainly not least, one of few remaining tastes of Cask #223, a 15YO (64.9%) beauty. A taste of this on its own would have made the private seminar worthwhile. It embodies the warm spirit of all things good in Cape Breton. You have to try this one on your own, as my explanation would never do it justice.

Although whisky tours are only available from May to October  (book now for your 2012 holidays and weekends away!), you can purchase Glenora products at select NSLC stores, the Halifax Seaport Farmers’ Market as well as various locations throughout Canada, the USA and Europe.

So pick up a bottle, sit by the fire with good friends and toast the success of North America’s first single malt whisky distiller. As the temperature drops, there are few better ways to seek warmth than the beautiful, brilliant flavours of the Glenora Distillery.